Literally a couple of days after I wrote my blog post about my Ford Mustang reaching 60,000 miles with not many issues, the clutch gave out. I was making a spirited run onto the highway and when I shifted from second to third the clutch went to the floor and stayed there. I had to pump it up and I barely made it home. It was slipping like crazy and while starting from a stop there was a lot of chatter. I thought about just taking it to the dealership, but after reading the online service manual I decided to save some money and change it myself in the garage. Since I only had jack stands I knew it was going to be a pretty painful experience. It is not the first time I’ve replaced a clutch so I do have some experience. Fortunately it went out on a Saturday and I could get to work right away.
I wanted to pull the trans before ordering the parts to see what I was dealing with. Just in case I had to order more parts than I originally thought I needed. I jacked the car up and put it as far up on the jack stands that I could. The first thing I did was disconnect the battery. Then I went to work disconnected the front subframe cross-bar. It is easy with just four bolts. I also marked everything I took apart so I could line everything up the same way when I put it back together. The manual tells you to drop the front subframe to angle the engine back, but I did not do this. I really didn’t want to mess with the alignment. Next I disconnected the driveshaft at the trans, rear-end, and the center bearing. I did not remove it totally, just kind of pulled it out the back a little. I didn’t touch the exhaust at first. That was a mistake. Later to get the trans out I had to disconnect the passenger side cat and loosen the ball joint to swivel it out of the way. I did not have to drop the whole H-pipe. Next I removed the starter. The top bolt is a pain in the butt.
I then climbed into the car and started to take the shifter apart. This is fairly straight forward. Pop the surrounding plastic and four cap screws hold it in place. It is probably easier to take off the rear shift bracket first from under the car. This allows the shifter to drop down and you can get to the rear bolts from the top more easily. After the shifter was free I started to look at all the connectors that needed to be taken off. Feel around the top of the trans to make sure you get them all. You can also disconnect the clutch line. There is a little metal clip you pry out and then the fitting pulls off. The little metal clip likes to fly off so pay attention when removing it. Be ready to catch the dripping brake fluid. Next I used my car jack to support the transmission. At this point I did not have a trans jack. With the weight on the jack I marked and removed the rear trans mount. Pretty straight forward. Next it is time to tackle the transmission to engine bolts. I found the best way to get to these bolts was from under the car. If you have skinny arms you can even get to the top ones from under the car. You obviously can’t see what you’re doing but you should be able to feel them. I used a piece of cardboard to keep the bolts in the same orientation that they came out in.
Now it was time to pull the transmission back and lower it from the car. This was a little sketchy with the car jack I was using. As you come down you should stop and double check to make sure all the connectors are disconnected. You will also have to make sure the shifter clears the H-pipe as you lower it. With the jack stands I have, the car was not high enough to slide the transmission out. Instead I just pushed it back to give me room to work on the clutch. Removing the clutch is pretty straight forward. There are six bolts on the pressure plate. Once out you should be able to pop the pressure plate and clutch off the dowels. Be careful, the weight of it can catch you off guard.
Once I had the car this far apart I started to order parts. I had no idea what clutch kit to get. After searching the forums and reading a bunch of reviews I settled on the Exedy Mach 500 kit. I also went ahead and ordered the Exedy steel flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts, and Exedy throw-out bearing. I ordered a new exhaust gasket for the cat from the local dealership. I had all my parts by Wednesday, but did not get a chance to work on the car until the next night. Before I could put it back together I still had to remove the flywheel. Using my impact I took out all the bolts and removed it. My next job was probably the most difficult. Removing the pilot bearing from the crank. First I tried the grease method. This didn’t do anything except make a huge mess. I had to go to AutoZone and borrow a slide hammer anda pilot bearing attachment. This made easy work of removing it. Still it was very tight and there was no way the grease method was going to work. You might as well just get the slide hammer right away.
For reinstalled the bearing I removed the crank trigger wheel so I didn’t hit it with the hammer. Using a large socket I drove the new pilot bearing into place. Then I put the trigger wheel back on and the flywheel, torquing it to the recommended spec from ARP and using the lube. Before installing the flywheel, I had to tap the pressure plate dowels into place. I decided to replace the throw-out bearing next. The new one I bought from Exedy looks exactly like the stock one. I think it is the same part, but since I was in there I decided to replace it. It is only two bolts to replace. Now it was time to put the new clutch and pressure plate into the car. Remember to clean off the rust preventative off both the pressure plate and the flywheel surface. The clutch has to go in with the flush side toward the engine. The hub side that sticks out toward the rear. You should be able to get the pressure plate up on the flywheel dowels, but be careful not to drop it. It is heavy. I put a little blue Loctite on the threads of the clutch bolts. Just get the clutch bolts started and insert the clutch alignment tool to center the clutch.
It is important to torque the clutch bolts in a star pattern at only a couple turns at a time. Drawing the pressure plate evenly onto the flywheel. Torque to the appropriate spec in the manual. The manual says to use new clutch bolts, but I didn’t. For reinstalling the transmission I bought a proper trans jack. There was no way I was going to safety install it on the car jack. I also enlisted the help of my brother since I knew it was going to be a tough battle putting it back it. I was right. It was a huge pain in the butt to get everything lined up to get the transmission to mate up with the engine and slide into place. I recommend cleaning up the dowels on the transmission with some Scotch-brite. Mine had some corrosion and would not slide nicely into the engine. Be mindful of all the connectors and not to pinch any wires. After going up and down a million times, we finally felt the input shaft go into the pilot bearing. I was still not able to get the transmission to sit flush against the engine because of the dowels. I had to put the bolts in and draw the transmission onto the engine for the final 0.75″. I know that is not the correct way, but it worked.
The rest of the reinstalled is pretty straight forward. Remember to line up everything you marked earlier. Re-apply Loctite to any bolts that looks like it had it before. I used blue on everything that needed it. Torque all fasteners based on what is in the service manual. This is also a good time to replace the clutch line with a braided SS aftermarket line and the shifter rear bushing with a stiffer part. I didn’t, but will go back and do it later. If everything is put back together you can re-fill the reservoir with new brake fluid. It will take a huge amount of pumping to get your pedal feel back. At first it will go straight to the floor. There is no bleed and it is supposed to bleed itself by pumping the pedal. I could never get the pedal feel as good as it was before with just pumping, so I used my vacuum bleed pump to bleed it the way the manual calls out. I did not have a rubber stop to use on the reservoir top so I went to Lowes and bought a rubber bathtub plug that fit in the hole. I then poked a whole through it and pushed one of my vacuum fitting into it. Worked perfectly and after vacuum bleeding, the feel was much better.
The last thing you will have to do is the crank sensor re-learn procedure. I didn’t do it right away, but after the 500 mile clutch break in procedure, the CEL popped up for mis-fires. So I went to the dealership and they were nice enough to do the procedure for free in about 10 minutes. The CEL didn’t come on until I started driving the car normally and taking it above 5000 RPM. The Exedy clutch break in is very specific and I was not driving the car aggressive enough to cause a CEL during that time. After the re-learn I have had no issues. The new clutch has a very similar feel to the stock clutch. Maybe just slightly firmer and the grab is very nice. There is also no chatter and you can still slip is nicely. I do not notice a large difference with the “lightweight” flywheel. Which is fine with me. While I am not thrilled about having to change the clutch at only 60,000 miles, now I don’t have to worry about it for a long time when I do more engine mods.
Tags: 2011 Mustang Clutch, Clutch, Clutch Replacement, Exedy, Ford Mustang