Dover Is A Big Test For The Roush Camp

Roush has been in a little bit of a slump since Carl Edwards won at Phoenix earlier in the year. While Carl is sitting second in the points, his teammate Greg Biffle has been sliding backwards in a hurry. Carl has been consistently finishing in the top 10, but he’s not had the speed to contend for wins.  Biffle has just been not very good most places we’ve raced. He has been running mid-pack at best and has been caught up in a few wrecks because of it. Ricky Stenhouse has had good days and bad days. You can’t get on the rookie too hard because he is still learning. His two teammates can’t use that excuse. For a team that is used to dominating or at least contending for wins on the tracks that have a lot of banking, they have not found their mojo with the new car. They just seem to be missing one or two little things to elevate them to the level that Joe Gibbs and Hendrick seem to be at right now.

This weekend we are at Dover. Historically this has been a very good track to the Roush Camp. As an organization they have over 75 top fives and 9 wins. Only Michigan and Bristol have better win records for them.  The high banking and concrete surface seems to suit their cars and their drivers. Carl Edwards and Greg Biffle are no strangers to driving a loose car, which is a necessity and this one mile speedway. I can remember back to 2008 when Carl Edwards, Greg Biffle, and Matt Kenseth (now at Joe Gibbs) battled each other for the win in a Roush 1-2-3 finish. That’s the kind of performance that Roush would like to get back to and Dover will be a good gauge to see where they stand. The Cup series is so competitive that just being off with your cars a tiny bit is the difference between running up front and running 15th.

Look for Roush to show improvement this weekend. If they don’t, they are going to have a hard time getting Biffle in the chase. I think Carl is fine and will make it, but Greg could easily miss it unless he find a way to improve his performance. Look for Jack to make a crew chief change soon if Matt Puccia can’t right the ship. Everyone knows that Roush will shuffle things around if a team is struggling. I think there is also more pressure on Roush Fenway now that Ford has another top-tier team under its wing. There have been quite a few races this year where the Penske cars have run much better than the Roush Fenway cars. I’m sure this did not go over well with Roush Fenway, who is used to being the top dog in the Ford camp.

You can’t argue that Hendrick and Gibbs have had the best cars. It seems like every race has been dominated by a driver from one of those two teams. Even if they haven’t won every race, they have been a threat to win. That’s all you can ask for. If you keep putting yourself in a position to win, you will eventually have everything go your way and get a win. If you’re running 8th to 10th all race you are not going to get those opportunities. I believe losing Matt Kenseth was a huge blow to Roush Fenway. Matt was such an integral part of the team that it’s like you’re losing a car chief as well. I think he has elevated the competition within Joe Gibbs Racing and taken their program to new heights. I was worried that there might be an issue with Kyle, Denny, and Matt wanting to be the #1 driver, but they seem to be getting along fine.

So after Dover we’ll have a pretty clear picture where Roush Fenway is and if they’ll be contenders for the chase.  I think Carl will get a top five, but I don’t feel good about Biffle’s chances. Ricky has a fair amount of experience at the Monster Mile so I would expect to see him able to run in the top 15. The Ford camp could use a boost right now and this is the best opportunity I think until Sonoma (Ambrose) or Michigan for them to get back to victory lane. It wasn’t that long ago that we were calling Edwards “Concrete Carl” and I’m sure he would like to get some of that magic back.

image from Wikimedia author diaper

2011 Ford Mustang Clutch Replacement

Literally a couple of days after I wrote my blog post about my Ford Mustang reaching 60,000 miles with not many issues, the clutch gave out. I was making a spirited run onto the highway and when I shifted from second to third the clutch went to the floor and stayed there. I had to pump it up and I barely made it home. It was  slipping like crazy and while starting from a stop there was a lot of chatter. I thought about just taking it to the dealership, but after reading the online service manual I decided to save some money and change it myself in the garage. Since I only had jack stands I knew it was going to be a pretty painful experience. It is not the first time I’ve replaced a clutch so I do have some experience. Fortunately it went out on a Saturday and I could get to work right away.

I wanted to pull the trans before ordering the parts to see what I was dealing with. Just in case I had to order more parts than I originally thought I needed. I jacked the car up and put it as far up on the jack stands that I could. The first thing I did was disconnect the battery. Then I went to work disconnected the front subframe cross-bar. It is easy with just four bolts. I also marked everything I took apart so I could line everything up the same way when I put it back together. The manual tells you to drop the front subframe to angle the engine back, but I did not do this. I really didn’t want to mess with the alignment. Next I disconnected the driveshaft at the trans, rear-end, and the center bearing. I did not remove it totally, just kind of pulled it out the back a little. I didn’t touch the exhaust at first. That was a mistake. Later to get the trans out I had to disconnect the passenger side cat and loosen the ball joint to swivel it out of the way. I did not have to drop the whole H-pipe. Next I removed the starter. The top bolt is a pain in the butt.

I then climbed into the car and started to take the shifter apart. This is fairly straight forward. Pop the surrounding plastic and four cap screws hold it in place. It is probably easier to take off the rear shift bracket first from under the car. This allows the shifter to drop down and you can get to the rear bolts from the top more easily. After the shifter was free I started to look at all the connectors that needed to be taken off. Feel around the top of the trans to make sure you get them all. You can also disconnect the clutch line. There is a little metal clip you pry out and then the fitting pulls off. The little metal clip likes to fly off so pay attention when removing it.  Be ready to catch the dripping brake fluid. Next I used my car jack to support the transmission. At this point I did not have a trans jack. With the weight on the jack I marked and removed the rear trans mount. Pretty straight forward. Next it is time to tackle the transmission to engine bolts. I found the best way to get to these bolts was from under the car. If you have skinny arms you can even get to the top ones from under the car. You obviously can’t see what you’re doing but you should be able to feel them.  I used a piece of cardboard to keep the bolts in the same orientation that they came out in.

Now it was time to pull the transmission back and lower it from the car. This was a little sketchy with the car jack I was using. As you come down you should stop and double check to make sure all the connectors are disconnected. You will also have to make sure the shifter clears the H-pipe as you lower it. With the jack stands I have, the car was not high enough to slide the transmission out. Instead I just pushed it back to give me room to work on the clutch. Removing the clutch is pretty straight forward. There are six bolts on the pressure plate. Once out you should be able to pop the pressure plate and clutch off the dowels. Be careful, the weight of it can catch you off guard.

Once I had the car this far apart I started to order parts. I had no idea what clutch kit to get. After searching the forums and reading a bunch of reviews I settled on the Exedy Mach 500 kit. I also went ahead and ordered the Exedy steel flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts, and Exedy throw-out bearing. I ordered a new exhaust gasket for the cat from the local dealership. I had all my parts by Wednesday, but did not get a chance to work on the car until the next night. Before I could put it back together I still had to remove the flywheel. Using my impact I took out all the bolts and removed it. My next job was probably the most difficult. Removing the pilot bearing from the crank. First I tried the grease method. This didn’t do anything except make a huge mess. I had to go to AutoZone and borrow a slide hammer anda pilot bearing attachment. This made easy work of removing it. Still it was very tight and there was no way the grease method was going to work. You might as well just get the slide hammer right away.

For reinstalled the bearing I removed the crank trigger wheel so I didn’t hit it with the hammer. Using a large socket I drove the new pilot bearing into place. Then I put the trigger wheel back on and the flywheel, torquing it to the recommended spec from ARP and using the lube. Before installing the flywheel, I had to tap the pressure plate dowels into place. I decided to replace the throw-out bearing next. The new one I bought from Exedy looks exactly like the stock one. I think it is the same part, but since I was in there I decided to replace it. It is only two bolts to replace. Now it was time to put the new clutch and pressure plate into the car. Remember to clean off the rust preventative off both the pressure plate and the flywheel surface. The clutch has to go in with the flush side toward the engine. The hub side that sticks out toward the rear. You should be able to get the pressure plate up on the flywheel dowels, but be careful not to drop it. It is heavy. I put a little blue Loctite on the threads of the clutch bolts. Just get the clutch bolts started and insert the clutch alignment tool to center the clutch.

It is important to torque the clutch bolts in a star pattern at only a couple turns at a time. Drawing the pressure plate evenly onto the flywheel. Torque to the appropriate spec in the manual. The manual says to use new clutch bolts, but I didn’t. For reinstalling the transmission I bought a proper trans jack. There was no way I was going to safety install it on the car jack. I also enlisted the help of my brother since I knew it was going to be a tough battle putting it back it. I was right. It was a huge pain in the butt to get everything lined up to get the transmission to mate up with the engine and slide into place. I recommend cleaning up the dowels on the transmission with some Scotch-brite. Mine had some corrosion and would not slide nicely into the engine. Be mindful of all the connectors and not to pinch any wires. After going up and down a million times, we finally felt the input shaft go into the pilot bearing. I was still not able to get the transmission to sit flush against the engine because of the dowels. I had to put the bolts in and draw the transmission onto the engine for the final 0.75″. I know that is not the correct way, but it worked.

The rest of the reinstalled is pretty straight forward. Remember to line up everything you marked earlier. Re-apply Loctite to any bolts that looks like it had it before. I used blue on everything that needed it. Torque all fasteners based on what is in the service manual. This is also a good time to replace the clutch line with a braided SS aftermarket line and the shifter rear bushing with a stiffer part. I didn’t, but will go back and do it later.  If everything is put back together you can re-fill the reservoir with new brake fluid. It will take a huge amount of pumping to get your pedal feel back. At first it will go straight to the floor. There is no bleed and it is supposed to bleed itself by pumping the pedal. I could never get the pedal feel as good as it was before with just pumping, so I used my vacuum bleed pump to bleed it the way the manual calls out. I did not have a rubber stop to use on the reservoir top so I went to Lowes and bought a rubber bathtub plug that fit in the hole. I then poked a whole through it and pushed one of my vacuum fitting into it. Worked perfectly and after vacuum bleeding, the feel was much better.

The last thing you will have to do is the crank sensor re-learn procedure. I didn’t do it right away, but after the 500 mile clutch break in procedure, the CEL popped up for mis-fires. So I went to the dealership and they were nice enough to do the procedure for free in about 10 minutes. The CEL didn’t come on until I started driving the car normally and taking it above 5000 RPM. The Exedy clutch break in is very specific and I was not driving the car aggressive enough to cause a CEL during that time. After the re-learn I have had no issues. The new clutch has a very similar feel to the stock clutch. Maybe just slightly firmer and the grab is very nice. There is also no chatter and you can still slip is nicely. I do not notice a large difference with the “lightweight” flywheel. Which is fine with me. While I am not thrilled about having to change the clutch at only 60,000 miles, now I don’t have to worry about it for a long time when I do more engine mods.

2011 Mustang GT 60k Mile Review

This week my 2011 Mustang GT rolled over 60,000 miles. I thought I’d post a now out of warranty review on the car so far. I’ve had this car nice June 2010 when I bought it new. Since then it had been my daily driver and also my weekend warrior. It was the first Ford I have owned. Up until the introduction of the new Coyote 5.0 engine, I would never have considered a newer Mustang GT. I’ve felt for a long time they have been underpowered compared to the other cars in its class. The redesign in 2010 took some getting used to for me. My mother actually bought a 2010 and I really liked the updated interior. I love the Sync sound system and the Bluetooth connectivity. When Ford finally announced the new engine selection, I made a trip to the Ford dealer to see when they would get the 2011s in. Some dealership were getting them in early 2010, but I couldn’t find the color I wanted. I wanted a Kona blue with the tan interior. I also wanted it to be a premium with the Brembo brake package, HIDs, and 3.73 rear gear. Ordering the car would have taken too long so I asked the local Ford dealership to keep an eye out for one.

A week later the local dealership called. They said that a dealership in Winston Salem had one with some of the options I wanted. The car was the right color combo, a premium, and had the 3.73 gear. It did not have the other two things I asked for. I decided I could add the Brembos later and I wasn’t even a fan of the Brembo wheels. The HIDs I could also live without. Now I did one of the dumbest things you could do when buying a new car. I bought the car sight unseen. I was happy with the price and what they were giving me for my trade in. I completely rushed into signing the paperwork. I had to wait a couple of days for them to drive the car down and prep it. It was too late to go back because I already signed on the dotted line.

When I picked up the car the relationship got off to a rocky start. Once I got home I noticed an intermittent engine tick that sounds like a bbq grill igniter. I also felt a clunk in the front that transmitted through the pedals. I called the dealership and they said they would look at it the next day. They wanted to keep it overnight, but it was my only car so I insisted on a loaner.  What they did next was insulting. They brought out a dirty 6 year old Altima that somebody just traded in. The inside was disgusting and it was obvious the car needed some mechanical repair. They wouldn’t even give me my 2007 Scion tC back for a day that I just traded in. Clean I might add. I drove home not touching anything I didn’t have to in that car. Not the way I wanted to be treated after just spending over $30,000. The next day they said to come pick up my car. When I arrived I was told the engine tick was normal and they did feel the clunk in the front. They said they would open a case with Ford and see what they would recommend. I never heard from the dealership again. I never went back and I wouldn’t buy another car from them.

Soon the engine tick problem started popping up on forums with other new 5.0 owners. 3 years later there is no fix. So far it has not influenced the performance, but I’m always wondering if something will fail down the line because of it. To this day my car still does it for the first 1,000 miles after an oil change then goes away. It’s very loud and can be embarrassing when people notice. The clunk didn’t go away until I upgraded most of the suspension. If I would have drove the car before I bought it, I would have waited for another car. Oh well, live and learn. Other than those two problems I love the car. It was one of the first 5.0 Mustangs in Charlotte and I received a lot of attention. Everyone at the first Cars & Coffee I went to wanted to look at it. It was cool to have something unique. More 5.0s quickly started showing up and the exclusivity was gone. Still I was having a lot of fun driving the car everyday. It made my 30 minute commute much more enjoyable. The car had plenty of power and decent handling in stock form.

Good enough that I just drove it stock for the first 10,000 miles. I didn’t really want to do anything to the car at first, but soon felt the modification itch. So I started with a simple Roush cat-back exhaust. While the exhaust is quite loud, it has zero drone. One thing I would not tolerate. After that I replaced the shifter with one that had a shorter throw. I did not want to do any mods that could affect the cars powertrain warranty so I did not get the very popular cold air intake and tune upgrade. While the car is not crazy fast, I was satisfied with the stock acceleration. In 2011 I decided to start working on the suspension. I order the Ford Racing adjustable handling kit. I thought this would be a pretty good compromise between ride quality and handling. Multimatic from Canada engineered the kit and they know a thing or two about Mustang chassis. They build the Mustang Grand Am race cars. I also wanted a minimal drop so I didn’t have to mess with the rear pinion angle. Once installed I noticed a nice increase in grip. The large amount of brake dive the car had stock was nearly eliminated. After these modifications I started autocrossing the car.

The last two mods I have completed was adding the Brembo front brakes and larger wheels to fit around them. The Brembo 4 pistons front brakes don’t stop any quicker than the smaller standard brakes, but they are more resistant to fade. The larger wheels would allow me to run 275 width tires on all four corners. I wanted to keep the tires all the same size to keep from increasing the large amount of low speed understeer the car already had. The tires were probably the biggest inprovement to reduce my autocross times. Also I started to play with the suspension setting to dial out the understeer. I could never completely get rid of it, but I was able to make the car more neutral. As far as the car itself, I did not have to do any other maintenance other than oil changes. I am getting 25 mpg average on the highway and 19 around town. Not bad for 412+ hp. I’m also not the best at getting good fuel mileage. I like to use the right pedal when sensible. The only interior wear the car has is the steering wheel cruise control buttons. The black paint is chipping off.

I also found that the exterior paint is easily scratched. The car came with a lot of scratches in the clearcoat when it was new. Probably due to some careless lot porter washing it incorrectly. In the three years I’ve owned it, the car has never left me stranded. While I take care of it, I also drive it very hard. I bought the car to drive and have fun with, not to look pretty. I’m driven it on a 15 hour road trip to Canada. I’ve trashed it on the Tail of the Dragon a half dozen times. I also drive it in the snow. It is actually not bad in the snow. I was able to make it to work during a bad snow storm a few years again with little effort.

After 60,000 miles the car feels as tight as the day I bought it. Now with the clunk gone, there are no rattles or sounds. I have not experienced any transmission problems that have plague many 11+ GT owners. Nor any clutch problems. The engine consumes very little oil and pulls as strong as it did the day I bought it. The body has a few scratches, mostly from hitting cones during autocross, but the car still cleans up nicely. Now with no warranty I’m debating whether to continue modding it and how far to go. Should I step up to track days from autocross or just enjoy the car as is? While the 412 hp is nice I have been jaded by faster cars and the idea of adding some form of boost keeps creeping into my mind. I like the car enough that I don’t know if I’ll ever sell it.

The big question is would I buy it again? My answer is yes and no. If I only had to buy one car and daily drive it, yes I would buy it again. Would I buy it as a weekend or fun car only…. no. I think I would rather have a used C6 Corvette. Similar power, but lighter weight and much more competitive in autocross. Now the burning question is, leave it alone or take it to the next level (boost)?

Drive Your Sports Car The Way It Was Intended

Many race fans often dream about getting the chance to experience the thrill of driving all out on a race track. To most it stays just a dream because of the lack of opportunities and the perceived financial barriers. There is a way to get 90% of the fun with only 10% of the cost of a normal track day. You don’t need a race car or any racing experience. Anybody with a driver’s license can participate (there are jr. kart classes too) and no matter your driving skill, I guarantee you’ll have fun. You’ve probably heard of autocross, but if haven’t experienced it, this is for you. If you’re not familiar with autocross it is a single timed lap through a temporary course set up with cones. The run usually lasts 50-70 seconds depending on the location and speeds can get up to 70 mph. This may not seem fast, but the tight corners will challenge anyone of any skill level. You get multiple runs to try to improve your time a position.

Autocross had been around for decades and is becoming a very popular way to push your vehicle to its limit in a safe environment. There are a few sanctioning bodies with SCCA being the largest. I’m actually a little embarrassed to say that last year (2012) was my first year doing it. I’ve known about it for 10+ years, but never took the plunge. The extra bit of motivation I needed came from the girl I was dating. Yes, you read that right! After we went to our first event together I was hooked. I couldn’t believe I waited that long to try it. My Mustang was essentially stock at the time and I had a blast. That is the best thing about autocrossing. You can drive almost any car as long as it is safe. There are plenty of different classes to keep you racing similar cars and to keep up your competitive fire. Even if you are not competitive within your class, you still have the personal challenge of improving your time.

I was actually really nervous about competing in my first race. Would I mess up and take out half the course? How many cones will I hit? I quickly realized I had nothing to worry about. Hitting cones is part of the game. Even the best drivers hit cones as they try to get the most out of their run. You will hit cones! You will spin out! So don’t sweat it. Just have a good time and learn as much as you can from the veterans. Most regions are excited to get new novices every year and do as much as they can to make them comfortable. My region, Central Carolina Region (CCR) was very helpful my first year. They have someone assigned to look out for the beginners and conduct a novice course walk every race. I’m assuming this is the same for all regions. For you first time concentrate on learning the procedures and safety rules. Make sure to introduce yourself to as many people as you can. Most people will be more than happy to help you if they are not busy prepping their car. Having an experienced co-driver helped me immensely.

To find your region check the main organizations website (SCCA, NASA, etc). Each region will usually have its own website for event registration. On the day of the event arrive at the recommended time on the schedule. If you are new I suggest arriving early. It will give you some time to see what other people are doing. Don’t hesitate if you have any questions. I suggest looking at the online rule book before the event to figure out what class your car will be in. You should also empty out your car of everything except the things you’ll need for the day. The car will have to go through tech with nothing in it. You should wear some comfortable closed toe shoes that you can run in. If rain is in the forecast bring a cheap poncho. Autocross is a rain or shine sport. Some other things you might want to bring are your helmet(Snell rated) if you have one, some painters tape in a contrasting color for your door numbers (Door, not window!), a small cooler with drinks and snacks, sunscreen, tire pressure gauge and pump, and any tools you may need. Maybe a chair too. I’m sure I’m forgetting something! I try to fit everything in one backpack that I can leave in my pit spot.

When you arrive empty your car and put your numbers on the door. If you don’t know what to do, look at somebody next to you that is making temporary numbers. Some regions will want you to take your drivers floor mat out. The only thing you want to bring to tech is your helmet. Get in line for tech and when it is your turn shut your car off and pop your trunk and hood. They will give your car a quick inspection. Checking for leaks and pulling on your wheels feeling for any issues.  They will make sure your car is empty. If you car has any mechanical problems do not race it. Even if it a small problem, driving a car hard will amplify the problem. You will not get on anybody’s good side by slipping a non-mechanically sound car through tech and breaking on course. If you have any doubts, ask!

After tech it will be time for a course walk. Many people have their own rituals for the course walk. Some of them amusing. You can usually tell when someone is very serious about learning the course and dont’ want to be bothered. Others will be on a leisurely walk chatting away. For your first time walk it a couple of times to get an idea of how the course flows. Don’t beat yourself up if you forget all the corners. I rarely can remember the whole course and to me it looks different at speed. After the course walk you can wait for the drivers meeting. Pat attention to who runs the region and all the rules. Listen for them to announce the run group and work group you’ll be in. That’s right, everyone who drives also has to work. Novices usually run with their base class. After the meeting there will probably be a novice walk of the course. This is a great time to ask any questions you might have. They will also go over what you have to do when you’re working on the course. If you’re new and not disabled you will probably run for cones. Listen carefully to all the instructions and safety rules.

If you work first, report to the timing trailer and sign in. Get your assignment and head out on the course if you’re running after cones. Talk to your corner captain and tell them you are new. They will show you what to do if you’re still not sure. I won’t go over all the rules, like never turn your back on a car. You’ll get it all if you pay attention in the meetings. I will say that working sucks, but it’s apart of the sport and fair. There are other non-running positions you can volunteer for once you’re not a novice anymore or can’t run.

What you’re really here for is to drive. When it is time for your run group make your way to the starting grid in your car. Someone will direct you where to go depending on how many drivers you have. Each car is allowed two drivers. Having a co-driver really adds to the fun in my opinion. It also allows you someone to compare to while driving the same car. For your first time you can have someone ride with you that will help you through the course. You’ll have people come up and ask if you need an instructor if you have the “N” on the side of your car. I suggest taking the offer if you don’t really know what you’re doing. You can always take a solo run later. It’s also a good way to get to know some people. For your first run just take it easy and focus on staying on course. At first the track can look like a sea of cones and can be intimidating. This is where a vocal co-driver can come in handy. You are going to get at least 3 runs. Most regions allow 4 or 5 runs. For your first run your adrenaline will be pumping, but try to stay calm. The run will be over before you know it!. Try to improve over each run. Don’t be afraid to get close to the cones.

If you spin out regain control and continue on as long as there is not red flag. If you see red flag at anytime come to a complete stop. If you were not the cause of the flag you will get a rerun. Don’t start going again until the course worker clears you to continue. If you make a mistake don’t get discouraged. Remember you’re there to have fun. In between runs you can check and adjust your tire pressures. If you have a boosted car you can open your hood to help with the heat soak. Always stay with your car in the grid area and be ready for when it’s your time to go again. After your second run you should have a feel for how long you’ll have in between runs. After your last run you can go back to the pits.

Congratulations you just completed your first autocross event! If you’re like me you’ll be hooked after your very first run. If you have already worked, you are free to leave at this point. You can also stick around for the trophies. If the event goes smooth, there might be some time for fun runs. A fun run is pretty self-explanatory. Usually you pay a dollar per fun run. This is a good time to practice some more if you think you need more experience.

If you’ve ever been thinking about autocrossing, don’t wait or put it off. I’m sorry I did and now I love it. It’s something you can do a couple of times a year or a couple of times a month. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to have fun, but I will warn you, you might want to drop some coin for some better tires after a few events. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I am by no means a veteran, but I feel I can answer most.

More info at  www.scca.org

Best Driving Road in America?

If you are a driving enthusiast there’s a good chance you have already had the pleasure of driving what I consider the best road I’ve ever been on. If you haven’t, you better! This road is worth a mini vacation on its own. Not to mention all the great door activities that are available surrounding it. The road I’m taking about can overload your senses and unfortunately for a handful of people, be deadly. After having made more than a half-dozen trips I still get the same thrill every time I drive it. The tight turns, quick elevation changes, and decreasing radius turns make it more challenging than any race track I’ve been on if you’re lucky enough to make a clear run. Everyday hundreds of people come to drive or ride this famous road. There is almost a cult following surrounding it. The road offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. What makes this road so special is it boarders a national forest and there are no other intersecting roads. Almost eliminating the risk that someone could pull out in front of you.

The road I am talking about is of course US 129 at Deals Gap. Or as most people know it, the Tail of the Dragon. If you haven’t heard of it you need to hop on Youtube. Tucked away on the North Carolina and Tennessee border this road has been raising heart rates for decades. The last fifteen years have seen an explosion in interest and people from all over the US come to enjoy it. The most popular stretch of the road is 11 miles long and has over 300 turns. The speed limit is only 30 mph, but you’ll hard pressed to go much more than 40 mph through the turns when driving hard. The banked switchbacks and blind corners leave you often wondering if you will make it to the end in one piece. As a passenger it can feel like an amusement park ride.

The road is shared with bike and car enthusiasts. Generally speaking the cars will have faster cornering speeds and will be held up by the bikes. Plus you will have a lot of people who have no desire other than to cruise the Dragon at a slow pace. Which can be annoying, but that is their right and it is best to pull off on one of the many areas along the road to make a little gap. Then you can take off again. If the slower traffic is just one car or bike they may let you by if you’re not tailgating. The best way to enjoy a spirited drive on the Dragon is early in the morning on a weekday. You can practically have the road to yourself if you get up early enough. I recommend getting a cabin in the area and to spend a few days there. That way you can have access to the road whenever you want. If you head up on the weekend it will be unlikely you’ll get a clean run. Don’t let that discourage you from going if that is your only opportunity. You will still leave with a huge smile on your face. You can also avoid the local law enforcement by going at less popular times. I will say I’ve never had a problems with the cops. As long as you’re not driving like an idiot and crossing the center line, they will most likely leave you alone.  You should also be on the lookout for warnings from other people coming  in the opposite direction.

The legendary part of US129 starts at a motel and restaurant just on the North Carolina side of the border. During the weekend the motel will be full of bikes and there will be no parking available for cars. Across the street there is a new restaurant that has additional parking. It can be a little nuts and hard to get your group organized, but be patient and you will find a spot. If you can get your group together before you get to the motel and just head up the road to the dragon, that is probably be the best bet. There is a beautiful overlook at the end where you can stop and chat about the run. Most people turn around at the overlook and head back down.

If you are going to tackle the dragon as a group and it is your first time, I recommend staying in the back. Also it can be tempting to overdrive your car trying to keep up with someone faster. Drive within your capabilities! The only times I’ve had “moments” on the road was when I was trying to stay with a group of much faster cars. Do not drive at the grip limit. If you’re driving at the limit already and the corner unexpectedly tightens up, you could be in trouble. Take it easy until you get a feel for the road. There are so many turns that it’s hard to remember them all.  If you are going at a cautious place please be aware of faster vehicles coming up behind you. It is common courtesy to pull over and let the faster vehicles by when there is a safe opportunity. The most important rule as I stated before is to stay in your lane. Do not overdrive your car so that you have to push into the oncoming lane. That is how most of the accidents happen.

With the popularity of the road there are 4-5 photographers that will take your photo as you drive by. If you’re driving hard you probably won’t be paying any attention to them. Please do not try to show off. There are plenty of photos of people crashing because they tried to light up the tires are they go by. You can jump online when you get home and check out your photos. If you made multiple trips up and down the dragon there should be plenty of photos to choose from. Don’t think that the Dragon is the only great road in the area. There are enough spectacular roads to keep you busy for a week.

Is the Tail of the Dragon the best driving road in America? Obviously there are many great roads that I haven’t experienced. Even so, I have a hard time imagining a road that provides more driving satisfaction or challenge. If you know a better road I’d like to hear about it!